So last year a customer asked me for a bespoke order, she was looking for a dress for her Little girl for st Patrick's day in the colours of the Irish flag. Dream come true. One of the most exciting things for me as a seamstress is to create something truly unique,
Fast forward to 2018 and I am mastering the dress.
So first a made a little sketch to show my customer, we choose to keep the Irish flag just on the skirt, with a white bodice, round neck, puff sleeves and a bow.
Once she was happy with the design I started to investigate fabrics, it soon became clear that it would needed to be cotton. I choose a quilting weight cotton from Stitch Fabrics. These guys are my go to fabric shop for most of my fabrics, i like the fact that I can ring them and ask advice and they are always happy to send me samples, I use their quilting fabrics for my sailor suit shorts and pinafores.
Next question is the pattern, i have used two vintage patterns and combined them, (the sleeveless pattern is my go to pattern for many of my dresses, and the other is my new (1950's) pattern which I will be making up for this season - watch this space. Its got a lovely puff sleeve which I think will be perfect.
so fabrics come, perfect. for the skirt i need to over lock the edges, I useless am a massive french seam fan, but this weight of cotton will be too bulky for them. Each piece I make about 35cm wide so altogether it will be close to 2m wide - once I've over locked them its just a matter of sewing them together and pressing them open.
The bodice is plain white, I make up the lining and the front the same and and sew the neck line and side seams, I create I long wide sash (lined in lawn) and fold a box pleat in the seam.
Pinning the armholes together with the lining i attach the sleeve (its looking a nice full puff hopefully not too long!)
then its just a matter of attaching the skirt and lining to the bodice and hand sewing the bodice lining over the raw edges. I think its nicer to do a blind hem for this dress so I hand sew the hem.
Looking at the dress I think it needs a bit of puff, so back to the cupboard I go and find some Tulle (also from Stitch) to gather and attach to the lining. looking good, i just knock up a little Alice band and its ready to send to my customer. I hope she likes it!